AC running but not blowing cold air? Here's exactly what causes it — and what it costs to fix.

We’ve broken down the 7 most common reasons an AC stops cooling in Las Vegas — with a plain-English explanation of each part, what goes wrong, and our flat-rate repair price. Most are diagnosed and fixed on the same visit.

Check These Three Things First

Three free checks a homeowner can do safely before calling. Keep this short and genuinely helpful.

1. Your air filter

A completely clogged filter blocks airflow so severely the evaporator coil freezes over and the system can’t cool at all. If the filter is dark grey and you can’t see light through it, replace it — this costs nothing.

Replace it and give the system 30 minutes to thaw before calling.

2. Your thermostat

Make sure it’s set to COOL — not HEAT or FAN. The set temperature must be below the current room temperature. If the display is blank or dim, try fresh batteries.

Dead batteries are one of the most common reasons a thermostat seems to have failed.

3. Your breaker

Make sure it’s set to COOL — not HEAT or FAN. The set temperature must be below the current room temperature. If the display is blank or dim, try fresh batteries.

Dead batteries are one of the most common reasons a thermostat seems to have failed.

None of those fixed it?

Here's what our technician will find and fix on the visit.

The 7 Most Common Causes

Each part below — what it does, why it fails in Las Vegas, the warning signs, and exactly what we charge to fix it.

1. Capacitor

The most common AC repair in Las Vegas

The run capacitor is one of the most frequently replaced parts in a residential AC system — especially in desert climates. Inside, it’s two thin metal plates separated by insulating plastic and immersed in oil to manage heat. It stores and releases electrical charge every cycle, giving the compressor and fan motor the phase-shifted current they need to start and run at proper speed, torque, and efficiency. When the capacitor weakens, the motor struggles to start and runs inefficiently — drawing more current, overheating, and wearing out faster. A weak capacitor can burn out a motor over time. Las Vegas heat accelerates capacitor failure faster than almost anywhere else in the country, which is why it shows up on so many service calls here.

Signs it has failed:

  • AC hums but the outdoor fan isn’t spinning
  • System tries to start then immediately shuts off
  • Lights dim when the AC kicks on
  • Compressor tripping the breaker at startup

Dual run capacitor. Single run capacitor: $220

Flat-rate price

Standard

$ 250
  •  

Clubb 33

$ 0
  • 5-year warranty
  • Usually fixed same visit

2. Contactor

The switch that sends power to your outdoor unit

The contactor is an electromechanical switch inside the outdoor unit. When the thermostat calls for cooling, it sends a low-voltage signal that energizes the contactor coil — which closes the contacts and allows 240V power to flow to the compressor and condenser fan motor. After thousands of on/off cycles in Las Vegas heat, the contact surfaces burn and develop pits. Pitted contacts create resistance, which causes a voltage drop across the contactor — reducing the voltage reaching the compressor and dropping system capacity. Eventually the contacts fail to close altogether and the system won’t turn on. A pitted contactor is one of the most visible signs of wear we catch during maintenance visits.

Signs it has failed:

  • System won’t turn on at all when the thermostat calls for cooling
  • Outdoor unit doesn’t respond even when the thermostat is set correctly
  • Visible burn marks or pitting on the contact surfaces
  • System works intermittently — sometimes on, sometimes not

Flat-rate price

Standard

$ 240
  •  

Clubb 33

$ 0
  • 5-year warranty
  • Usually fixed same visit

3. Condenser Fan Motor

The motor that keeps your outdoor unit from overheating

The condenser fan motor turns the fan blade that draws outside air through the outdoor coil. As air passes through, it absorbs heat from the refrigerant — allowing the refrigerant to condense back into a liquid and reject heat outside. That warm air is then expelled out the top of the unit. When the motor fails, airflow stops, heat builds up inside the outdoor unit, head pressure climbs, and the compressor shuts down on its high-pressure safety switch. In Las Vegas, this can happen within minutes during summer. Condenser fan motors are rated for high ambient temperatures — the air around them in an outdoor cabinet in July can reach 140°F to 175°F — but continuous operation at those limits wears bearings and windings over time. A failed or undersized capacitor is one of the most common root causes of motor failure, which is why we always include a new capacitor with every motor replacement.

Signs it has failed:

  • Outdoor fan not spinning while the compressor is running
  • System runs briefly then shuts off — outdoor unit hot to the touch
  • Grinding, squealing, or rattling from the outdoor unit
  • AC running but barely cooling the house

1075 RPM — new run capacitor included. 825 RPM motor: $650

Flat-rate price

Standard

$ 620
  •  

Clubb 33

$ 0
  • 5-year warranty
  • Usually fixed same visit

4. Blower Motor

The indoor motor that pushes air through your home

The blower motor is the indoor motor that pulls air across the evaporator coil and pushes it through your ductwork. Standard blower motors use a permanent split capacitor design — a run capacitor stays in the circuit at all times, providing the phase shift the motor needs to run at the correct speed and torque. Higher-efficiency systems use ECM (electronically commutated) motors, which use a permanent magnet rotor and brushless DC control electronics. ECM motors are significantly more energy-efficient and can modulate speed to match the load — but they are more complex and more expensive to replace when they fail. When any blower motor stops working, there is zero airflow through the system. The compressor and outdoor unit may run perfectly, but you won’t feel anything from the vents — and without airflow across it, the evaporator coil will ice over and make things worse.

Signs it has failed:

  • No air coming from vents despite the system running
  • Very weak airflow throughout the home
  • System running but rooms not reaching temperature
  • Ice visible on the copper lines near the indoor unit

Standard blower motor. ECM variable speed motor: $1,180

Flat-rate price

Standard

$ 730
  •  

Clubb 33

$ 0
  • 5-year warranty
  • Usually fixed same visit

5. Thermostat

The control center that tells your system when and how to run

The thermostat sends low-voltage control signals to the system. A call for cooling energizes the contactor coil and brings on the compressor. A separate signal energizes the indoor blower. On standard systems these are simple 24V AC signals carried by individual wires. Smart thermostats add Wi-Fi connectivity and programmable scheduling but operate on the same fundamental low-voltage control circuit. On higher-efficiency communicating systems, the thermostat sends more sophisticated signals that allow the system to modulate speed and capacity rather than just switching on and off. A failed thermostat — or one with dead batteries, wrong settings, or failed wiring — can prevent the entire system from responding. Before calling for service, check the batteries, confirm the mode is set to COOL, and verify the set temperature is actually below the current room temperature.

Signs it has failed:

  • System won’t respond to any thermostat changes
  • Thermostat display is blank, dim, or frozen
  • System runs constantly and won’t shut off
  • System won’t turn on at all despite correct settings

Standard digital thermostat, installed and programmed. Smart thermostat (Ecobee/Nest): $620

Flat-rate price

Standard

$ 280
  •  

Clubb 33

$ 0
  • 5-year warranty
  • Usually fixed same visit

6. Compressor

The heart of the system — the most significant repair in residential HVAC

The compressor is the largest and most critical motor in the system. It pressurizes the refrigerant so it can absorb heat inside your home and reject it outside. All modern residential systems use scroll compressors — two spiral-shaped scrolls that compress refrigerant continuously as one orbits the other. This design has far fewer moving parts than older reciprocating (piston) compressors, which makes them quieter, more efficient, and more reliable. The compressor motor is sealed inside the refrigerant circuit and cooled by the suction gas returning from the evaporator — which is one reason running a compressor with low refrigerant or into a deep vacuum causes immediate damage. One of the most common causes of premature compressor failure in Las Vegas is a weak or failed capacitor that was never caught at maintenance — forcing the compressor to hard-start repeatedly until the windings burn out.

Signs it has failed:

  • System running with no cold air at all
  • Loud grinding, clanking, or screeching from the outdoor unit
  • Compressor trips the breaker every time it tries to start
  • System hard-starts — several attempts before it comes on, then shuts off

R-410A: 2T $2,480 · 2.5T $2,570 · 3T $2,730 · 3.5T $2,870 · 4T $3,210 · 5T $3,330 Clubb 33: 2–3.5 ton = $0 · 4 ton = $210 · 5 ton = $330 after $3,000 credit See VegasAC.com/compressor-replacement for full R-22 pricing

Flat-rate price

Standard

By tonnage
  •  

Clubb 33

By tonnage
  • 1-year warranty on compressor
  • Same day to next day

7. Refrigerant

Low refrigerant means a leak — it doesn’t go away on its own

Refrigerant doesn’t evaporate or get used up over time. If your system is low on refrigerant, there is a leak somewhere in the system. A properly charged system should hold its refrigerant level for the life of the equipment. When refrigerant is low, the evaporator coil gets too cold — below freezing — and ice forms on the coil and copper lines. That ice then blocks airflow, which makes the problem worse. Suction pressure drops, the compressor runs hotter than it should, and the system loses more and more capacity. We check pressures using manifold gauges, find the leak, and recharge the system to the exact weight specified by the manufacturer for your unit and refrigerant type — not estimated by sight. We charge a flat $250 service fee that covers the pressure check, leak inspection, and system verification. Refrigerant itself is charged at market cost with no markup — what we pay is what you pay.

Signs it has failed:

  • AC runs constantly but never reaches the set temperature
  • Ice forming on the copper lines near the indoor unit
  • Warm or only slightly cool air from the vents
  • Higher electric bills with noticeably less cooling

Service fee covers pressure check, leak inspection & system verification R-410A $8.96/lb · R-32 $12.45/lb · R-22 $26.60/lb — all at market cost, no markup

Flat-rate price

Standard

$ 250 + refrigerant
  •  

Clubb 33

$ 0 + refrigerant
  • 5-year warranty
  • same visit

Clubb 33 — $33/month.

Members receive a $3,000 repair credit per visit. Every part above except compressors is $0 for members. Compressor credit: 2–3.5 ton R-410A fully covered, larger sizes pay only the balance.

How We Diagnose It

When we arrive we don’t guess. Every technician follows a structured diagnostic process:

Step What we do
1 Visual inspection Both indoor and outdoor units — burned wires, ice on the coil, pitted contactors, oil staining from refrigerant leaks, capacitors showing physical damage.
2 Electrical measurements Voltage, amperage, and capacitance readings on every major component. Tells us exactly what is working and what isn't before we touch anything.
3 Refrigerant pressure check Manifold gauges connected to measure suction and head pressure. Low suction pressure confirms refrigerant loss. High head pressure points to airflow or coil problems.
4 Temperature split test Measure supply air and return air temperature. A healthy system shows a 16–22°F difference. Less than that tells us where the system is losing capacity.
5 Diagnosis and price confirmation We explain exactly what we found, give you the flat-rate price, and wait for your approval before starting any work.

AC not blowing cold? Call or text now

702-604-8092

Most repairs diagnosed and fixed same visit. Price confirmed before we start. No surprises.

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